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The "robust"
olive oil of Portugal. The Portuguese do not, as is done elsewhere, rush the
olives from tree to press. Their December harvests are merry and casual affairs,
festas with friends and neighbors gathering in the orchards to beat the branches
with sticks and rain the olives down upon the ground, where they are left to age
for two to ten days. This intensifies the olive flavor, as does running the
pressed oil off into hot water, producing a more delicate oil.
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